Quality over Quantity

Lately I have been talking to gentlemen about the quality of construction that goes into a suit. I bariefly touching on the fused canvas, the innards that are glued into the jacket, which is the method that most "off the rack" suits are made. There is a hybrid method that is half glued/ half stitched in. Then there is the the "fully canvased". This is the best form of suit construction. It employs many more hours of labor from the tailor and is truely hand crafted. Full Canvased jackets generally last about 10x longer than fuse glued jackets. They also drape better on the wearer giving them more natural movement as opposed to the stiffer fused canvas construction.

In addition to construction method, the fabric quality is a large determinate of quality. The finest wools come from the mills in Great Britain and Italy. They use the finest raw fiber from all over the world and employ very meticulous process to transform that fiber to a fine wool. One of the best mills around is Scabal. They produces a wide variety of fabrics for tailors from Savile Row to Ralph Lauren to individual tailors around the world. Their fabric is of the highest quality and this video clip takes you through the process.....enjoy......

A "business suit" is not just a business suit!!

I have walked into to many offices lately and all I see is a see of dark charcoal grey and black with the occasional dark earth tone.  It is very drab.  Lighten it up or add some color or do both.  The two best buisness colors are the "all-rounder" grey....

and the "power suit" navy....

 If you do not own at least a few variations of each and are in a suit everyday we need to talk.  These are your stables businessmen!!  Although you should have a solid light grey and the same for navy the possibilities are endless for patterned versions.  The pinstripe navy is very popular along with the windowpane grey pictured in my last post as an amazing three piece suit.